Who said that creativity and lawlessness do not go hand in hand with mathematics and precision, clearly was wrong.
Born in Vipiteno (Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol) in 1985, ended his scientific high school studies he moves to Milan and, after abandoning the idea of pursuing a mathematical degree, he chooses a fashion institute where he begins to follow a tailor’s course. Throughout two years he explores his abilities within the textile industry, that already have been put to the test by his grandmother being a tailor herself. After having finished his studies he starts working for Italian and foreign companies and develops throughout this journey his profound passion for accessories. In 2008 he accepts the offer to collaborate with a consultancy studio within the leather goods industry, collaboration which is still alive today and which sees him as Creative Director.
His position allowed him to conduct parallel projects to his employment and to show in september 2011 the first season of the collection that bears his name.
You are young and have already had collaborations with international fashion houses. Every experience gives us some valuable lessons that will serve us in the future, but if you should highlight one thing for each job you have done so far, who taught you what?
I am convinced that the experiences we do, they are done for some reason and they somehow unconsciously follow one another in order to bridge the gaps of the past ones, chaining and forming what will later become our own career. The curiosity and desire to challenge are definitely the key drivers. That said, it is also true that in every company where one can be employed you often watch the same aspects of things but with different eyes and logicals. Then give each experience a value of specific teaching I don’t know if it’s worth, I think it is more interesting to collect various points of view in order to mature our own. The same combination of color, for example, in a company it can be guessed, for another granted, and for yet another horrible: from which of these three companies could i have learned more?! Hard to say. What I do know is that I have been lucky to find good people on my career, they taught me to care for every aspect of the object that is going to be designed and realized, starting from his duties and proportions, up to colors and materials.
What do numbers mean to you?
For me numbers are like words that make a speech. Conceived as such, they therefore become carriers of emotions and meanings. Just can and want to read them to realize they’re not just an abstract thing thought by man, but rather a mandatory convention, and neither too complicated, to interpret the world around us, its mechanisms and its rules. And even if “hidden”, because you cannot read them straightly in the appearance of things, they are the key of proportions and therefore of all that our eyes and our mind read as “beauty”.
You have created a collection inspired by the Golden Section, whose geometric and mathematical properties mpressed the mind of man over the centuries. But what, however, has stirred within you this much acclaimed “canon of beauty”?
Let’s say that the collection, or rather the original nigredo#1, not in the Golden Section and originally composed of only 3 pieces, was born on the island of Stromboli, for a project of FiorucciArtTrust published in the book Rolling Stones. The bag has seen the light a year before the launch of the collection itself, and then it has adopted a new proportion and has become the head piece of my first season: a black triangle reminding to the island’s volcano, both in form and in material. From there I started to think about giving sisters to this piece and while questioning on origami and geometries I came across in the book De Divina Proportione by Luca Pacioli and in the Leonardo da Vinci’s polyhedra. Here is explained my obsession with the Golden Section, deep enough to make me hide its numerical coefficient in my logo. It was like love at first sight. Fixed the problem of form, I’ve been fascinated by the adjective “golden” and so I started to work on creating a bag made of gold. Counting that I already had a material with a primordial spirit and attitude, just like the Nigredo skin, alchemy came to my rescue. The result: The New Golden Age collection, that almost with a touch of melancholy I presented during this particular historical moment, that everything it is, except “Gold”.
For the launch of your collection you collaborated with artists and photographers such as Anna Franceschini, Alessandro Di Giampietro, Paolo Gonzato and Ivan Muselli. How was working with them?
I have always been accustomed to work in team and surrounded by different suggestions, and also for this project I realized that I could not do it alone. All names listed are people of which I professionally appreciate the work, but with whom I have relationships that go well beyond the simple work’s sphere. Working with them and share thoughts and intents was to me very natural, pleasant and certainly constructive. All the things you do for the pleasure of them, they eventually sprout on their own, with minimal effort. It’s the strength of complicity that makes the whole engine.
The works with Paolo Gonzato and Anna Franceschini have been studied with them, but without putting mine oar in it. Because they are works of artist I respected the start thought and the dna of both, by asking them simply to accompany the project with pure and singular operas, trying to not “dirty” too much fashion in art and vice versa. Everything remains in its own right and with a personal force, but when the parties come together, they amplify their communicative power. Paolo has been an important shoulder for my debut, in a broad sense, and I immediately shared with him the desire to involve his work in the project. From our long chats was born Gold Experience, 233 (this is also a prime) triangles in gold leaf, then used to accompany the presentation call in September, the “perfect key” to enter my world. From Anna Franceschini I borrowed a video, simply because I was in love with it. With Ivan Muselli I shared the desire to photograph my friend Celeste, beautiful in the last months of pregnancy. A good wish for the launch of the collection that relates the world of motherhood and the time of waiting with a handbags line debut season. Once again it is the symbol to make sense: a triangular pouch that evoke the grace of the Renaissance Virgins. I asked Alessandro Di Giampietro to play the black part of the collection, a primal soul placed in a futuristic location. The bottom of a black pool white flighted highlights a world of perspectives, that seem to be drawn on the photographs. A strong work, immediate, able to communicate the rationality of the project with an alien sensuality.
What inspires you for your research?
I love to dive into the world of contemporary art and also fishing in the past sometimes. Architecture is always a good inspiration for the shapes, nature for the colors. It’s enough that you go down the street and live with and among people, that you can understand what you really need and what people like to have and use, and above all which mistakes do not repeat. Though real inspiration often comes by accident, you cross it in the most unexpected place or you realize that it was there, just in front of you, so long ago!
If you would not landed in Milan and not chosen the path of creativity in fashion, what would you have become? A doctor, a writer, a postman or a porn actor.
If I would not gone down this road, I might have continued to study mathematics or at least I would have dedicate myself to biology. I would always have found time to drawing and painting, or at least an outlet, so to speak, “minimally creative.” I like to believe, however, in the power of reinvention, when you are tired of things and maybe you find another passion that rewards you most. About porn acting I’m thinking for a little while now.
Allowing superstition, tell us about your plans for the near future.
So much for luck, I tell you that I’m working on the next collection and testing of new materials. In previous seasons I left out an ingredient in the alchemy that will be the master in the Fall/Winter 2012 collection. Around this “ingredient” I’m striving on new possible collaborations, even if at this moment I do not deny being fascinated by the world of sound (I mean the classic ones), but don’t want to anticipate anything yet. The idea is that Simone Rainer’s world could eventually become a platform for experimentation, but especially for interaction between different worlds. A meeting of thoughts and people that have somehow turned on and stimulated my interest and that may be embraced in the poetry’s “mathematical logics” of this brand.
I’m pretty classic and “boring” in a way regarding food: my favorite is definitely Margherita pizza, but with a little spicy oil.